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Once a year we run a trip between Rio and Manaus, two iconic Brazilian cities with so much in between, from little visited beaches and lush national parks to historic colonial cities, African heritage experiences and of course the incredible Amazon rainforest.
Rio to Ouro Preto
We leave the stunning views of Rio behind and head north to the mountain retreat of Teresopolis. The road winds up the hillside through jungle, with dramatic peaks towering overhead. We have a free day where we can visit the Parque Nacional Da Serra Dos Argaos and walk trails to waterfalls, with stunning views of obscurely shaped mountain tops.
Continuing north we make a short stop in Congonhas to see 12 lifelike Old Testament figures sculpted from soapstone, which stand proudly outside the Basilica do Bom Jesus de Matosinhos. Our journey takes us to quite possibly the most significant and beautiful colonial town of the area, Ouro Preto. Even vehicles are not able to navigate the narrow and winding cobbled streets. The biggest attraction is the Minas de Passagem (Gold Mine) - antique cable cars take you underground into the mine which was originally opened in 1719.
Ouro Preto to Caravelas
We explore the coastline, home of some of Brazil's best and least known beaches and far less populated with tourists than the resorts of Recife and Rio. We will either stay in locally owned Pousadas (guesthouses) or camp under the stars, as we pass through Linhares to Itaunas. Time can be spent exploring this sleepy fishing village or wandering the dune trails and relaxing on the beach.
Caravelas is our next destination, on the mangrove lined Rio Caravelas. We have the option to take a day trip to the nearby reefs in Parque Nacional Marinho de Abrolhos, where there is the chance to swim with sea turtles. Alternatively the day can be spent on the beach or wandering along the riverfront.
Caravelas to Salvador Elevado Lacerda
Venturing further north, we pass by some of the more remote beaches, and if time allows, we may also stop off in Parque Nacional Monte Pascoal which is controlled by the local Pataxo (pa-ta-sho) Indians. Here we can walk the trails to try to spot the endangered spider monkey, sloths, porcupines, capybara, deer, elusive jaguar and numerous species of bird.
Porto Seguro is our next stop and is the region where Portuguese sailors first landed in the New World over 500 years ago, and where you can still see relics from those early settlement days. A steep climb up to Cidade Historica will be rewarded with sweeping views, colourful old buildings and museums. Porto Seguro is also known for its nightlife and 'beach action!'
We then take the ferry across Brazil's largest bay, Baia de Todos os Santos, and arrive in the Afro-Brazilian city of Salvador. Around 40% of all African slaves transported to the new world, came to Salvador and this has left a very particular vibe - tropical, soulful and intoxicating, that is unique to this corner of Brazil. The centre is separated by a steep bluff, into the Cidade Alta (Upper City) and Baixa (Lower City) and access is gained in the beautifully restored art-deco elevator, Elevado Lacerda. We have a few days to wander and take in the music, cuisine and religion of the region. You can also stop off in the Praca da Se and watch locals practicing the dance fighting known as Capoeira.
Salvador to Palmas
Heading west, we come to the quaint town of Lencois. With its cobbled streets and brightly painted 19th Century buildings, it's the prettiest of the old diamond mining towns. The mighty Fumaca waterfalls, various caves and idyllic rivers and panoramic plateaus set the stage for some fantastic adventures. Or maybe just wander the streets, grab a coffee, take in the local life and enjoy some of the excellent cuisine.
After a night quite possibly spent under the stars, we continue into the interior where roads start to become more arduous, and we make a stop in Navidade, in the green and wooded valley of Serra Geral. More cobbled streets and prettily painted, tile roofed 18th and 19th Century houses await and we have time to explore the town before following the highway north and to reach the confusing layout of Palmas. The Tocantins state capital was only constructed in 1989 and has a sort of 'planned weirdness' about its streets.
Palmas to Taquarucu and Belem
We move on to the cozy town of Taquarucu, some 30kms south Eeast of Palmas, where we spend the next few nights.
The local tourism boards have worked together to try to create Taquarucuas an eco-tourism mecca. In the area there are some 80 waterfalls, caves and pools, which we'll have time to explore. For those that want to go wildlife spotting, several optional tours are available to the nearby parks of Estadual do Jalapao and Ilha do Bananal. In the latter, there is a good chance to see dolphins, caiman, giant river turtles and lots of bird life. Although difficult and unpredictable, you may also catch a glimpse of a Tapir or Jaguar!
Next we start a long drive north towards Belem on the Atlantic coast. Upon its completion in the 1960s this road was heralded as a feat of engineering as it overcame the unforgiving Amazon to allow people and goods to be transported from the Brazilian interior to the ports of Belem for exportation. Now the rainforest has given way to further development and we pass through vast stretches of farmland, camping overnight in remote Postos before arriving in Belem. We have a couple of days here to enjoy the city and wander the riverside walkways of the mighty Amazon.
Belem to Boa Vista
Today we board a boat, and hang up our hammocks ready for the journey across the mighty Amazon delta. Nothing can prepare you for the sheer size of this area, as it will take us 24 hours to journey from Belem on the south bank to Macapa on the north.
Macapa is an overnight stop as we wait for our truck to arrive on a separate ferry from Belem. This gives us time to explore this commercial hub where gold, iron, timber, oil and tin ore pass through on its way to neighbouring Santana. The Equator also runs through the centre of the city, which has lead residents to call it ‘The capital of the middle of the world’.
We journey north on dirt roads, quite possibly having to use our sand mats to make it through the mud and to reconstruct wooden bridges!
After leaving Brazil to travel through French Guiana, Suriname and Guyana, we return to Brazil and drive to Boa Vista, where we can enjoy some locally caught fish in one of the riverside restaurants.
Boa Vista to Manaus
We drive southwards from Boa Vista through an Indigeneous Wairmiri Reserve to rejoin the Amazon River at Manaus and journey’s end. From here you can take an expedition into the Amazon jungle in search of more wildlife and to discover more of the different indigenous people who live in the area. There are chances to learn about different plant species that are used for medications, fish for piranhas, and take guided walks in the forest.
In the city, the open air markets have great souvenirs and local crafts available and the famous Amazonas Opera House is also good to see before you return home.
Our 62 day Tropics of South America overland trip travels through these areas of Brazil as well as French Guiana, Suriname and Guyana:
RIO TO MANAUS VIA THE GUIANAS (62 DAYS) TROPICS OF SOUTH AMERICA
Explore a landscape like no other with our 62-day tour across Brazil and through French Guiana, Suriname and Guyana. Starting in the bustling city of Rio, you will travel along the Atlantic coast and through the centre of Brazil into the tropical paradise that awaits. Travel south through unspoilt rainforest and into the vibrant metropolis that is Manaus, overlooking the Amazon river. This tour truly gives you the opportunity to explore the road less travelled and discover the outstanding landscapes and cultures of Latin America that many do not get to see.
Or go for the big one on our 27 week Cartagena to Manaus expedition:
CARTAGENA TO MANAUS INC. GUIANAS (29 WEEKS) TRANS SOUTH AMERICA
Embark on the journey of a lifetime with an exploratory expedition which takes you throughout South America. Witness some of the most striking landscapes that this part of the world has to offer as you travel through dense rainforests, dry deserts and high altiplano. Experience the pristine coastlines and vibrant cities as you get a real feel of the sights, sounds and flavours of the true South America.